Thursday, July 1, 2010

Alas, Praha!

I know you’ve all been on the edge of your seats waiting to hear about the main event, and now I am finally here to tell you.

My first steps in the Czech Republic occurred around 4 pm, local time. I was greeted by a driver with an 'FSU' sign and a fellow, male student named Brian/Bryan (later to be nicknamed by his roommates: “Movie Guy,” for bringing over 100 movies with him on the trip). We got in a very interesting car that reminded me of a van-version of the Honda Element. As our driver navigated us through the winding roads of the city, we finally arrived in the giant plaza known as Wenceslas Square, one of the most famous sites of Prague, as well as our new home.

We were two of the last few stragglers to arrive so we went our separate ways and I was greeted at my apartment door by the roommate I had met through Facebook, Ashley. Soon after, I met Lizzie who was sitting on the couch of the common room, and Ashley gave me the grand tour. The layout is as follows: As you enter through the front door you will find two rooms on the left, one with a shower/bathtub, washing machine, and sink/vanity, another with a toilet and sink (no mirror). On the right of the entrance is a set of closets as well as bigger room with a double vanity and shower/bathtub. Past these three rooms is our living room with sectional, desktop computer, and plasma screen TV with 30 Czech Channels. To the right is our kitchenette and dining area. Past this area is a hallway with two bedrooms on the left, each containing 2 beds. The first room houses Lizzy and Ashley (this Ashley also known as Svetlana for her spot-on Russian accent), two MSW (Master of Social Work for those not up to speed) from Fordham University. The second, significantly smaller room houses the first Ashley we met and myself. Ashley is an FSU grad who is completing her own MSW degree at FSU online from her home in Tampa. I mentioned that this room was significantly smaller, and just to describe how small I will paint this picture: on our very first night of meeting each other, in effort to make the best use of space, we moved both our twin beds next to each other against one wall and were left with one queen-sized bed for two strangers to share… we have become very close.

Moving back into the hallway and continuing forward, the end of the hallway houses three more MSW students from Fordham: Susie, Tara, and Kristin. And across from us is yet another toilet/sink room. And there you have it, apartment no. 30 in the Vaclavske Namesti apartment building and it’s seven female tenants, ranging from ages twenty to twenty-eight.

After the meet and greet, it was a quick turn-around to our first orientation and welcome dinner in the restaurant next/under our apartment for some authentic Czech food. I’m sure you’re all curious as to what that exactly is, and what it is, is delicious. Similar to German food—lots of gravies, schnitzels, pork, sausage, and salads that consist of diced cucumbers and tomatoes only. Heavy, heavy, heavy, yum.

Once we finished dinner, we headed out for some roommate bonding at an Irish pub around the corner. We watched soccer games and got to know each other as much as our jet lag would allow, for it only took us about half a beer each to realize it was time for bed.

Praha Day 2 started with an early morning walking tour around our very famous neighborhood, old town square, and the Jewish quarter. Our neighborhood, and apartment building in particular is so famous because it is the very spot were the Velvet Revolution took place. When you walk out our door to the right is the magnificent structure known as the National Muzeum, where the first day of the riots (November 17, 1989) took place. Later that week, in front of thousands of people, future president, Vaclav Havel, made his speech supporting the actions of the students who were changing history on the balcony of our apartment.

…So yeah, it’s kind of a big deal.

Then there is Old Town square, which is home to two cathedrals that are nearly identical to that one we have in the United States… you know the one, in Magic Kingdom? It is also home to the astrological clock that makes a big show every hour. Many people have seen the event on the travel channel, so if you don’t have a trip planned her soon, I’d tune in for that ‘cause it’s quite a sight. It involves little men and skeletons and trumpet players high up in the tower.

We also went to the Jewish part of town, which was very special to this half-a-chosen-person. We saw two synagogues, one of which had its walls lined with the names of Czech and Slovenian Jews who had died in the Holocaust. To my knowledge, I don’t have any ancestors that fit this description; but nonetheless, it was quite chilling to see “Blochova” and “Diamante” among the masses. In that same synagogue were drawings made by children in the ghettos. Probably some of the more disturbing things I’ve seen in my time; lots of violence drawn by such innocent witnesses. The second of the two synagogues we visited was built by the Spanish and was quite a spectacle--very elaborate and ornately decorated, and nothing like I had ever seen before. We also walked through the very disturbing Jewish cemetery, home to an estimated 100,000 bodies in not more than half a soccer field worth of space. We weren’t allowed to photograph the place, but it was something to see. The grounds had risen over four feet from the path we could walk and headstones were no more than inches apart from each other, popping out of the ground at all angles. Forgive me for being redundant but, chilling, I say… Chilling.

After all this we took a break for lunch at “Bohemian Bagel” (how appropriate, right?) and met back at school, Cevro Institute, for a two-hour lecture on Czech History. I’m not quite sure what our schedulers were thinking, taking us jet-lagged Yankees on a three-hour walking tour and then expecting us to sit through that… but we managed, and came home for some quality naps and overpriced drinks in the square.

I know I’m still six days behind but I’m trying, people. Bear with me, this is all I can crank out tonight.


  1. Very cool to read your detailed commentary on a city that I've never been to. It really makes me feel like and old pro feel like she's learning something new. I also like the running commentary on exhaustion. I'm know its hell to endure, but it actually seems romantic when reading about it :)

  2. How weird. My coded word to verify my comment just now was 'Toori'!

  3. Ummm...forgive me for asking, but HOW'S THE BEER?

    Your pick up on "BLOCHOVA" and "DIAMONTE" is insightful and scary. A bit of research in that area of the world might tell some very interesting stories about our fam. Maybe some future trip.

    Sad that we can't join you. The photos are killing me!

    Luv U...Dilly